Hawaiian heirloom jewelry is all around us. Yet, most never stop to wonder how the tradition of wearing Hawaiian heirloom jewelry arose and why so many people wear it today. 

Hawaiian jewelry dates  back to the nineteenth century. Several versions of its origins have been passed down for centuries. In one legend, Queen Kapiʻolani and Princess Liliʻuokalani received engraved bracelets at Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. The Golden Jubilee was held in 1887 to commemorate the 50 years of her reign. Queen Victoria gifted the bracelet to share her condolences with the women who had recently lost their family member, David Kalākaua’s sister. 

Queen Liliʻuokalani, inspired by Victorian style of jewelry and celebrating her strong connection with England’s Queen Victoria, commissioned a bracelet with “Hoʻomanaʻo Mau” (Lasting Memory) engraved in Old English Letters in black enamel. This bracelet became a valued keepsake she continued to wear for the rest of her life.

In 1893, Queen Liliʻuokalani gave Zoe Atkinson a gold bangle etched with “Aloha ʻOe” in black enamel characters. Atkinson was the principal of Pohukaina Girls School and, at the Queen’s request, the social planner for many galas at ʻIolani Palace. The bracelet served as a symbol of their friendship and rewarded Atkinson for her services.

Atkinson wore her bracelet to school, instantly catching the eye of her pupils. Soon, mothers began ordering similar bracelets for their daughters. Traditionally offered as birthday or graduation gifts, mothers and grandmothers frequently wore these bracelets until the girls were mature enough to care for their prized heirlooms. As a result, a legacy was established which continues to thrive today.

I spoke with Kimo Keaulana, a member of the Kuaihelani Center at Punahou School, to learn about the modern presence and rising popularity of Hawaiian jewelry. He said, “Hawaiian heirloom jewelry holds such a special place in my heart. Although it began as a symbol of mourning and compassion from Queen Victoria, to Princess Liliʻuokalani who later would become queen, it has become a representation of love and care here in Hawaiʻi.” Keaulana continued, “This jewelry is so distinctively Hawaiian. If you go on the continent, you won’t see anything like it.”

Founded in 2023 by Hawaiʻi natives Meleana Estes and Noël Shaw, HIE Heirlooms of Hawai’i is a Hawaiian jewelry company that aims to honor the past and breathe new life into this island tradition. When trying to purchase a bracelet for their daughter, the two could not find styles to their liking and noticed a gap in the market. “No one was making the exact jewelry we were looking for,” Shaw recounted. She adds, “After designing custom bracelets for ourselves in honor of our children, we thought, ‘wow, other families could use the resources we have.’” It was from there that Shaw and Estes founded the modern jewelry company. As I spoke with her, Shaw showed me her family’s very own traditional bracelet dating back to the 1800s, emphasizing that many families still treasure the origins of their heirloom jewelry.”

Since then, the jewelry has become more than just bracelets; it now encompasses several styles of necklaces and earrings. Both Keaulana and Shaw believe that anyone should be allowed to wear this jewelry, not just Hawaiians. However, non-Hawaiians need to take the time to understand its history and importance today. Shaw says, “I hope this tradition will continue long into the future. I want our daughters to be part of this beautiful custom.”